The Confident Antique Ring Buyer

The timeless appeal of antique fine jewellery, is apparent in the quality of craftsmanship, and also the quality of materials used. Pieces are handmade by individual metal workers, rather than mass-produced. The Gold used is rarely less than 18ct, and high quality Platinum is also widely used. Diamonds were sourced mainly from South African mines, which during the 1900s, were plentiful with diamonds of a brighter and whiter grade than their modern mined counterparts.

For this reason, Antique Engagement Rings are in high demand, and are becoming increasingly difficult to source. The market has become flooded with replica jewellery, which is made with poorer quality metals and stones. As investments, these pieces are a false economy, as they will not hold their value like a genuine Antique will.

We’ve all heard of the 4 C’s Cut, Clarity, Carat, Colour referring to the diamond set in the ring, but there is now a 5th C, Character. The character of a ring refers to whether its style is representative of the era within which it was made. Because of the amount of reproduction rings out there, this 5th C is being used more and more when determining the value of antique and vintage jewellery.

The other downside to reproductions, is that they are mass-produced, so you can be pretty sure that you are not buying a one of a kind of design.

So how can you be sure you are buying genuine antique engagement rings? Well, for a start, we need to define what the real thing is. Usually, if the style does not match the age of a ring, it is not real. If the materials in a ring are not of the quality stated, then you may have a fake. Neither of these factors mean the jewellery is worthless, because high quality reproductions, and antique costume pieces are still collectible in their own right. The risk when buying antiques, is that you could buy something that is not as described.

Look for metal hallmarks and makers marks on the inside of the ring. If a ring is French, you will often find the hallmark on the lower outside of the ring instead. The quality of the setting should match the quality of the stones. If you have a badly constructed setting housing a particularly large diamond, it is a sign that the diamond may not actually be a diamond. You can also check for signs of damage on the reverse of the setting, as this is a sign that the stones may have been removed and replaced. It can also be a completely innocent sign of repair work.

To the untrained eye, it is very difficult to spot the good fakes. Unscrupulous criminals will take casts of genuine antique ring settings, and mould new ones from them, scratches, hallmarks ‘n all. So the finished ring is sometimes virtually indistinguishable from the original.

If you want to be absolutely sure you’re buying the genuine article, make sure you buy from a respected jeweller, who is open and honest about who they are. If you cannot visit the jeweller’s shop, call them up and ask them about the ring. You will probably find that you are a better judge of character, than you can determine the genuineness of an antique ring. If in doubt, walk away from the sale.

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